Monday, July 13, 2009

Indian Progress

India has changed so much since the last time I (Pradeep) really spent any time here. Although I was here in 2002, it was just for a couple of weeks, and I spent the whole time mostly at home. Before that, I was living here for almost a year, in 1990-1991. So, it has been 18 years. This time, Dani and I have been running around town, so I have had a chance to really see things. So much has changed. India has really progressed.

In the 4 days we've been here there have been no power outages or even brown outs. The airport was massively expanded and modernized. In 1990, I arrived in a vast and dingy hall. Customs consisted of a single middle-aged man dressed in a drab olive-green uniform, decorated at the shoulders with gold braid (someone's idea of irony, no doubt). The rickety little wooden writing desk at which he sat would creak and threaten to fall over as his prodigious belly pressed against it with each breath. The throng of disembarking passengers swarmed around him, jamming their passports at him, as though that would help. He laconically eyed each visa, then directed a baleful glance at the passport holder. Savvy persons might surreptitiously palm him a large denomination, while those less bold waited interminably for him to ask random irrelevant, but officiously worded questions in stilted English. When it was all over and one cleared customs, the dilapidated baggage claim area, with its single carousel, inspired little hope that one's luggage would arrive, and that too intact.

In contrast, this time we arrived to a clean and brightly lit hallway, with white marble floors and air conditioning. The long hallway led to a broad customs area, with a row of booths where clean, young, efficient customs agents welcomed us with a warm smile. Our passports were inspected rapidly, efficiently, and with courtesy. A few quick stamps and we were on our way with cheery wish for a pleasant stay. In baggage claim, although Daniela's bag was delayed, the airport official quickly and professionally processed the tracking paperwork.

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